A new year, a fresh start. As 1913BERLIN launches its season 2017-18 cashmere collection – its first since designer Yujia moved to Paris – the fresh perspective of distance has conversely brought the brand closer to its roots, the edgy, experimental ethos of its home, Berlin.
The subtle reference to American sportswear, ever present in Yujia’s collections since its launch five years ago, remains. But the mood is more reflective, the palette hinting at the meditative atmosphere of the works of artists Giorgio Di Chirico and Edward Hopper – yet lightened by eclectic references: to art deco, to the hues and severity of renaissance portraits, to the indigenous textiles of multi-ethnic central Asia.
This season, the knitting stitches and patterns are more understated, the styles freer from the limitations of gender and shape. Of her latest designs, Yujia says: “It was a process of research and contemplation. I revisited many eras and artists, filtering them through my reflections. These were sometimes contradictory, but united by a desire to create a collection that would be both effortlessly contemporary and enduring…”