The subtle reference to American sportswear, ever present in designer Yujia’s collections since its launch five years ago, remains. But the mood is more reflective, the palette hinting at the meditative atmosphere of the works of artists Giorgio Di Chirico and Edward Hopper – yet lightened by eclectic references: to art deco, to the hues and severity of renaissance portraits, to the indigenous textiles of multi-ethnic central Asia.
This season, the knitting stitches and patterns are more understated, the styles freer from the limitations of gender and shape. Of her latest designs, Yujia says: “It was a process of research and contemplation...These were sometimes contradictory, but united by a desire to create a collection that would be both effortlessly contemporary and enduring…”
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